Stefan Vetter, Mueller Thurgau 2020
Stefan learned his winemaking trade while studying at Geisenheim and then working for Nittnaus in the Neusiedlersee region of Austria. In 2010, Stefan replied to a small newspaper listing, advertising a tiny vineyard for lease in his native region of Franken. The vineyard was accessible only by an overgrown, forest path, and was surrounded by nature. It had been planted with Sylvaner as long ago as 1934. For Stefan, it was love at first sight. He now leases three vineyards of Sylvaner, along with a tiny smattering of other grape varieties and a small cider orchard. The winemaking takes place in an extension of his grandparent’s house, with fewer than 500 bottles of each cuvee produced each year.
The favourite of wine bars. Often rightly reviled and yet underestimated, it has been cultivated in Franconia for 100 years. With low yields and an early harvest, it is surprisingly subtle. Fresh acid, mineral, with citrus notes and a relaxed length. Simple, but not banal – no more but also no less. Not the favourite of wine bars for nothing.